WOW!!! That word summed up yesterday for us. We went back up to Outshoorn to visit Cango Wildlife Ranch. Now we had been there on previous visits to SA and assumed that the girls would not want/need to go back but they did! If we’d have known before we went to Cango Caves we could have done both visits in one day but they only announced this after we had done the caves. Anyway... we planned to head back there yesterday. The weather has been so fickle here, totally unpredictable. Dense cloud makes you think you can’t do the beach so an ‘activity trip’ is planned for the day and then the sun comes out and the temps hit the high 30’s, or 42 degrees C as was the case yesterday!!! Anyway, the park had changed a little and we arrived and immediately were directed to a tour, obviously this is what you do as no one asked if we wanted to! The place is small, and with a tour under your belt you don’t need a map. Firstly was the Valley of the Ancients tour, and we were first taken into a giant greenhouse like structure, hot and damp, to look at fruit bats (I love these), turtles, some small buck (blue duiker) and gorgeous birds. Then it was vultures, crocs, pygmy hippos, etc etc. Next were the cats. Cango is part of a cheetah conservation project and has reared over 100 cubs. They had 8 cubs about 7 weeks old, sooo sweet and 3 Bengal tiger cubs that were a few months old – totally and utterly adorable. We looked at adult cheetahs, tigers and lions and then did the encounters. Into the lion’s den, well the cubs dens. First, the cheetahs, then the tigers. The experience was amazing; we were all so excited, awed and overwhelmed by a sense of privilege. How many other people have been able to sit with and stroke these animals? OK lots but have you??? The cheetahs, we freshly fed, remember it was 42 degrees C and totally out for the count. They barely stirred for us. One of the tiger cubs though was awake and playful. He was stalking single leaves blowing in the breeze and light patterns on the rock as it filtered through the tree above. I fell totally and utterly in love!
Another encounter you can experience at Cango is to get in a cage which is submerged in the croc pond! We saw a couple of Brazilian teenage girls do this. It was very amusing!
The South African kids have gone back to school now so the place is a lot quieter. I suspect that Cango Ranch was so quiet because no-one would be daft enough to go the The Klein Karoo desert on such a hot day. Mad dogs and Englishman and all that!
The previous day, Tuesday, Trish, Simon, Ashley and Sue came back from their Durban and Drakensberg trip. They had some great game drives seeing the big 5 within an hour on their last trip that morning, including a leopard with a cub.
On Sunday we went to Knysna. We started off at the Knysna Quays and had a very nice lunch at The Dry Dock restaurant. Gorgeous food and a great setting. We then had a drive around and viewed some of the dramatic scenery about the place. Much of the time Trish and Simon were away we took advantage of the privacy at the house to sunbathe and chill out. At Lynne and Vaughn’s there is never any privacy. Even if we stayed in when the Dukes went out there is the maid, the gardener etc around. Don’t get me wrong, I love being with them but here we have been able to get some decent sunbathing in. Eric, as usual, has sneered jealously at my brown skin as he curses his red, then peeling self. I, of course, am totally smug. I might not be blessed with good looks or a decent shaped body (OK it wouldn’t be too bad if I didn’t eat so much) but at least I can tan nicely. Please God do not make me pay in later years.

Africa 3: Thursday 7th January 2010

Well a very Happy New Year! I am sitting on the elevated deck at Trish and Simon’s house in Wilderness, about 450km east of Cape Town. Their house is all wood, the living area above the garage and rain water tanks. It has 4 bedrooms, 2 on the next floor up, the main on this level and a smaller one on the ground level. All have en suites, which is beginning to seem like the norm for new houses in S.A. Harriette is in the spa out here on the deck, over the bush, Eric is suffering from a night on the loo but has just woken and moved from the couch to the shaded part of the deck, Alice is sunbathing next to me. From the deck you can just see the ocean in one direction and the inland lagoons in the other. It is beautiful, peaceful and seems to be safe here – totally different to the atmosphere in JHB.
I have left it longer than I meant to blog so will try to re-cap. Our stay at Lindani lasted until Monday 28th December. The week remained lazy except, I tried to get Eric to try out the bike. He was pathetic!! Even in the lowest (or is it the highest, I can never remember, anyway, the easiest gear) he could not manage. His leg has a lot to answer for. We were only on the farm tracks and went about the same distance I run in the mornings but that was his limit. I went on ahead then caught up with him on the return journey. I really do understand that it is not his fault and don’t resent him, just the fact that he has this injury. As I have got fitter, not scrub that, as I have become more active, I spend less and less time with Eric and the kids as I pursue the cycling etc. I really wish we could do these things as a family. If Eric and I could do them together then the girls would have to come along, but with Eric staying at home they do so also. Oh well!
We drove home from Lindani on Monday 28th December. It was good to have internet access again. At Lindani it was intermittent, through Vaughn’s TG3 card, and only available under one tree. By the time we all had a quick go the computers battery died! Poor Alice always seemed to be the one whose, urgent, Face book checking was interrupted! On Tuesday Eric and I headed off to the Eastern Transvaal, or the Mphalunga District as it is now called, to the Mount Sheba hotel. We stayed there in 1989 and loved it. We booked months ago and paid online. Afterwards Eric said we should have gone to the Lost City at Sun City and when we got there we decided that would have been the letter option. It was definitely below par, a bit disappointing. The restaurant was nice looking and the food sounded great but was a bit tasteless. On top of that the weather was overcast so all the spectacular scenery was hidden behind clouds. We stopped in at Pilgrim’s Rest on the way to Mount Sheba, an historical mining town, and had lunch at the lower end. On our anniversary, the 30th, I went for a run in the morning. Now Mount Sheba is seriously high up but in a dip, almost like a crater, surrounded by high peaks so the road down into the grounds is seriously steep. I run almost all of the way on my way out, though have to confess that I did resort to walks for very short sections at its steepest. Later, we headed off to Hazyview. We wanted to do a canopy cable trip, sort of like a series of flying foxes, but they were fully booked. As we drove into Hazyview I got pulled over for speeding. The (black) cop was very professional, and after long discussion let me off with a warning. I was pleased, for 2 reasons. A. We did not get a fine but more B. He did not try to elicit a bribe! This is common practice here. Lynne was stopped a week or two ago and the when the cop tried to get money out of her she went ballistic at him yelling ‘Are you trying to bribe me!” Some colleagues were nearby and the cop was horrified and shooed her away in a big hurry hoping the other cops had not noticed!! Also, when we were stopped in SA once before the cop tried to get money out of us – failed!! At Hazyview we had coffee and looked around some art galleries. We then headed off to The Pinnacle. I took photos of it they seem to have been downloaded. Maybe they are on the video camera. From here we went to God’s Window but could see nothing there. I was surprised that we now have to pay to park at these sights. Lynne and Vaughn also were and think it is to do with ‘2010’ ie the Soccer World Cup which comes here in June. We then went to Lisbon Falls

Lisbon Falls
The morning of 31st December was bright and sunny. Typical, we were leaving that day!! We drove up out of the hotel grounds and parked to do a walk to the Mount Sheba lookout along this path. It was quite lovely.

This was the view of the hotel from where we walked:

The Mount Sheba Hotel
When we got back to the hotel I made Eric come to do a walk to a waterfall. I had it in my head that this was a short walk but after about 5 minutes the path was becoming treacherous. There was no way Eric could make it so I sent him back and I pressed on. The path got steeper and more rugged but after about 15 minutes I came to this grotto/waterfall in the woods. I was all alone and it was quite divine.


I got back to the hotel and we checked out. When we got back to JHB the house was empty apart from Brian, the gardener. Lynne and Vaughn had taken the kids ice skating. Apparently, the purpose was to get H and A to appreciate how hard it was to ice skate before they went to see the Imperial Ice Stars in Cinderella. They had obviously had a good time. While we had been away they had been out for several meals, horse riding as well as ice skating. Mark, Claire, and her boyfriend Chris, had taken them to the movies to see Avatar. They loved the movie and I think we will probably go and see it sometime. Avatar was made at Weta studios, in Wellington.
For the NY’s Eve celebrations we went to the Barnyard at Broadacres. It’s a cabaret venue. The tables are long refectory type tables that accommodate large groups. You can take your own food or buy pizzas there. We went with Ali and William, H, A and Michael. H, A and Michael have been getting on brilliantly. The act was Broadway Musicals and great fun. We sang all evening and danced for some of it. It was a great night.
I think we have shopped every day when in JHB! The choice is fantastic. I cannot get over it. Living in JHB you could shop forever! I had forgotten how I had gotten used to such little choice living in NZ. I think I prefer it how we are in NZ, so little materialism by comparison. I guess you used to what you live with.
The 1st January 2010, and I guess the first day of a new decade, started off sunny but clouded over and stayed that way until we left JHB on the 5th. On NY’s Day Lynne’s family came for a braai in the afternoon. Vaughn, Marks eldest son, (yes there are two Vaughns!) came. I hadn’t seen ‘little’ Vaughn in over 23 years! I think he was about 7 then! Needless to say we had lots of embarrassing tales to tell him from my recollections of his early years. I also had photos with me, taken at Marks place in about 1985! We all did a lot of reminiscing!

January 1st at the Dukes

On Saturday 2nd January Lynne, Vaughn, William, Daniel and I went mountain biking again.


Well no mountains in JHB but there was an interesting mountain bike trail along the spruit (river) from the Dukes place to Emerentia Dam. It was about 15km one way. Once there we went to a very nice, packed cafe for a well earned drink. I had gone through some muddy puddles and looked a state; hot sweaty and very mud sprayed. We sat amongst JHB’s beautiful people and drew a few looks!!! I was very amused. On the way back I had a moderately serious fall. Nothing broken, but definitely more serious than a simple tumble. I was thrashing it and just about keeping up with William, a serious biker, when we went round a sweeping bend at speed. Immediately there were 2 short, sharp downhill bends. I managed the first but on the second I think I went up the side slope, overcorrected and caught my peddle in the ground. I crashed spectacularly. I hit my head hard, hurt my ribs, both arms and was generally stunned. The rear wheel came off the bike and the handle bars bent. No one actually saw me fall but Lynne came round the bend a few moments later to find me flat out, not moving and tangled in the bike. I heard her call out and, knowing how she panics, struggled to call out I was OK. I had visions of her leaping on me and doing CPR!!!! I felt her checking my pulse and pupils and eventually pulled myself into the present. I pulled myself together, assessed my injuries and assured everyone I was OK. The guys repeatedly told me they would go and get a car but I decided I would be able to carry on. They spent a few minutes reconstructing Michael’s bike and eventually I was able to complete the journey. Unfortunately we were near the start of the return journey so it was a long trip back. I had lost my confidence and took it slowly. Vaughn had to carry my bike in a few places as there was no way I could push or carry it across the streams. Back at the house Lynne’s nursing skills were put to full use and I was settled in a hot bath with muscle ache relieving stuff in and plied with tea and pain killers. Just as well as the sympathy from my own family was sadly lacking!!! My face (left side and across my forehead along the ring of the bike helmet), ribs and arms were sore for quite a few days but I was surprised how little bruising I sustained considering how I hurt!!
On the same evening we four and Stephanie, went to see the Imperial Ice Stars (mainly East European ex-Olympic ice skaters) perform Cinderella on Ice at the Teatro Theatre at Monte Casino. It was amazing! I cannot believe that I was not aware of the show when it was in NZ. They are ¾ the way through a 2 year tour. I will certainly go and see them again if I get the opportunity. We all really enjoyed it. On top of the amazing ice skating skills the choreography and costumes where spectacular.
The following day, Sunday 3rd, we decided to head off to the Roof Market at Rosebank Mall. It took ages to find (Rosebank has at least 3 huge malls) and when we got there it was not there, closed for a few weeks over the Christmas period. So, we headed off to Newtown, a busy hub in downtown JHB, where the Market Theatre is housed. It was dead. It seemed that JHB was empty for the holiday period! We then went to Zoo Lake (an old haunt) to a new, and amazing restaurant called Moyo’s. There we were entertained with live music, all (yes including the adults) were face painted, and had a great meal before walking around the lake.








Monday 4th January was the day of our drive down to Wilderness, near George on the Garden Route. We left at 4.30am and arrived at 6.10pm. It actually was not a bad journey. We listened to audio books on my iPod, finally orientating Eric to the Twilight series. We got through book one and started book 2. Books pass the time so easily. We drove in 3 hour chunks and only had to fill the Kombie once. 1250km (about 750 miles). Trish (Eric’s sister) and Simon live in the UK but love Africa. Over the years Simon has travelled extensively across the continent. They have built an elevated log house on the huge dunes between the Indian Ocean and Langvlei lagoon. The property is surrounded by dune scrub/bush and has large decks. Trish and Simon arrived from the UK a few days earlier with some friends, Sue and Ashley.
Tuesday 5th January Eric and Simon went into George to run some errands while I ran, then waited for the girls to get up. We then headed off to buy groceries and birthday pressies for Eric. We came back to a wonderful braaied giant prawn lunch for Ben and Liviana, friends of T+S. Ben’s company built the house, in fact they also built the Caboose Hotel in Taupo!! After lunch we 4 headed off to the beach off Buxton Rd. I laid there thinking this could easily be a NZ beach ie gorgeous, quiet, long golden and sandy! Don’t get me wrong, I’m not complaining. It was perfect. Unlike the meal we had that evening!! We went to the Wilderness Grille. Don’t you go! We were seated then waited about 30 minutes before anyone took our drinks order. What was galling was that a young Afrikaans guy was standing not 4 feet from us doing very little. When we asked for some service he said our waitress would soon be along. To cut a ong story short although the actual waitress was nice the general service and time we waited was terrible. We refused to pay the 10% ‘gratuity’ which resulted in Eric having a heated discussion with the manager, a very rude Afrikaans women who sat smoking all evening although the place was obviously understaffed for the evening. I felt sorry for Simon and Trish as they had booked it.
Yesterday, the 6th, Eric woke with the trots so I took T, S, A and S to George airport with the girls. We then shopped and made our first trip to an internet cafe. R39 (about NZ$8, GBP3) for 25 minutes x 3. I thought that was pretty good. I started off telling the girls to remember to send Sarah an email for her birthday then promptly forgot to do so myself until I walked out the place!! I then decided I would text her from home but could not send. I was out of credit and we have not been near a Vodafone shop since (you cannot top up by credit card as I usually do). So Sarah, if you are reading this, we were thinking of you and hope you had a great day. And sorry I did not get a card to you. I could not add my blog entries as I did not have my hard drive with me but will do next time. Gosh I am so disorganised. It was overcast all day and we did not get back from shopping until mid afternoon so spent the rest of the day at Bakatad. And that brings us up today – phew!!